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An Indian doctor helps a cancer patient (L) try on a wig donated by a healthcare company during an event to celebrate International Women’s Day at the Kidwai Cancer Institute in Bangalore March 7, 2015. AFP Photo
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For several years, Satwan Kumar has been exchanging crisps and cotton candy for tufts of hair collected from women in the northern Indian city of Kasgunj.
Mr Kumar, 18, is one of many hair collectors in India who roam villages and towns to collect human hair, which is the raw material for making wigs for the world’s multibillion-dollar fashion industry.
The restriction will help revive the industry as the raw material will be available to all producers. We will become a country of finished goods
Since January, his business has been hit after the Indian government imposed restrictions on human hair exports, part of an industrial policy to support the local wig-making industry.
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“My business is almost dead. My profit has halved as there are no buyers for the raw material,” Kumar told The National.
The teenager from Uttar Pradesh learned the craft from his father and elder brother as a child.
A vendor (C) helps a customer with a wig sold at a roadside shop ahead of the Holi festival in Allahabad March 15, 2014. Holi, the popular Hindu spring festival of colors, is celebrated in India at the end of the winter season on the last full moon of the lunar month. AFP PHOTO/ SANJAY KANOJIA (Photo: Sanjay Kanojia / AFP)
Many women in India do not throw out their lost hair, believing that the curls are part of their body and preserve them according to age-old traditions.
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India is one of the leading suppliers of human hair for wigs for the fashion industry and people suffering from conditions such as alopecia or hair loss due to chemotherapy.
Between April and November last year, India’s hair exports were worth $145 million, a huge jump from $15.28 million the previous year, according to government data, with China the main export market.
Much of the balanced hair comes from the many temples where female pilgrims tone their heads – cutting their hair as a religious gesture to Hindu deities.
The hair, known as Remy hair, fetches high prices and is known for its quality because most donors come from rural areas where the use of artificial hair cosmetics is less common.
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Salon-sourced hair is not used in the industry because the clippings are too short, increasing the demand for naturally-fallen or “virgin” hair, which salesmen like Mr Kumar collect door-to-door.
Depending on the quality and length, hawkers buy the hair for 2,000 rupees ($26) per kilogram, which is sold to dealers for 6,000 rupees.
Most of the hair ends up in the eastern part of the thriving cottage industry in the state of West Bengal, where workers untangle the tufts, wash and straighten them.
Once the raw hair, called “goli,” is flown around the world, it’s mostly smuggled into China, where it’s used for wigs, braid extensions, and curls.
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But government restrictions on human hair exports – in part to tackle smuggling – have hit small sellers and cottage industries hard as demand and prices for hair have fallen.
“Dealers are offering 3,000 rupees per kilogram of hair. Our income has halved,” said Kumar.
But supporters of the government’s move say the new rules will help streamline hair exports, mandate trading licenses and help end smuggling.
They claim that much of the hair has been illegally exported under the guise of other products, depriving the local industry of raw materials and damaging production capacity.
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Sunil Eamani, a member of the Human Hair and Hair Products Manufacturers and Exporters Association of India, who has led the anti-smuggling effort, said the restrictions would help revive the industry because the raw materials would stay in the country.
“At least 80 to 90 percent of the human hair collected globally comes from India because it is the biggest source of raw material, but we have been losing our raw material due to smuggling,” Eamani told The National.
An Indian doctor helps a cancer patient (L) try on a wig donated by a healthcare company during an event to celebrate International Women’s Day at the Kidwai Cancer Institute in Bangalore March 7, 2015. Hair loss is one of the many side effects of chemotherapy, which leads to a loss of self-esteem in cancer patients, and the gesture of donating wigs to them was supposed to boost their morale. AFP PHOTO / Manjunath KIRAN (Photo: Manjunath Kiran / AFP)
“The restriction will help revive the industry as the raw material will be available to all producers. We will become a country of finished products.”
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However, shopkeepers like Mr. Kumar and traders like Sikander Ali are not convinced as they believe the new laws will allow monopoly and glut of raw hair.
His company is involved in the production of hair wigs and hair patches used mainly in the regional film industry and sold domestically, but also exports a limited amount of raw materials.
“The government has banned raw hair, but who is buying it? Myanmar, Bangladesh and China and these countries will never buy our complete products because they have their factories and they require raw materials,” Ali told The National.
“I welcome this move because it will help stop smuggling, but not every exporter was smuggling,” he said.
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Mr. Ali also pointed out that small production units like his, which employ 100 workers, are not enough to finish all the raw material.
“We used to export the raw material that was left over from the production of wigs. We do not have the level of manpower and infrastructure to complete all the raw materials.
“Expansion would require capital and if we don’t, we will face loss due to increased competition in the market,” Mr Ali said. Bengal accounts for nearly half of India’s hair exports, which are supported by workshops that exhaust their homes. the export curbs came as another blow to this cottage industry, which has been struggling since the lockdown.
Sabir Ali in his workshop. The family has been in business for 50 years. (Express photo by Partha Paul)
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Sahabuddin Mullick, 46, sits by the door of the 12-by-10-foot room, comb in hand, brushing strands of hair on a wooden bust. Others in the room braid their hair into a piece of cloth to make a wig.
“The lockdown was a nightmare. The business is just getting started, and then there are the promoters and middlemen. Our entire village is thriving in human hair processing, but there is no government support,” says Mullick, who has been in the business for 25 years and employs around 20 youngsters.
