Best Settings For Sports Photography – I received a Pentax K-x along with a Tamron 70-200mm F2.8 lens. I am relatively new to photography and want to specialize in football (soccer) shots. However, the ones I have taken before are not very sharp. As a general rule I set the camera to ISO 6400 on AF and also use a monopod.
I’m still learning my way around my camera and I always shoot everything on AF. I would appreciate any advice on improving the quality and sharpness of my images and advice on what settings to use during daylight and under spotlights.
Best Settings For Sports Photography
Are they blurry or just not sharp? You may be out of focus, but it could also be that your lens is sharper when stopped down a bit. I would stay away from ISO that high, try to keep it at 1600 or lower, and the shutter speed should be at least 1/100 or faster to freeze the action.
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All beginners are caught by the slow shutter speed. You only shared your ISO value. Tell us what mode/settings you are using. 1/100 is too slow for telephoto sports. 1/400 is the minimum IMO. Many would argue whether SR. should be enabled using a monopod. I occasionally shoot some sports, but I do it handheld and enable SR. If you’re using a monopod, you can try turning the SR on and off to see what works best for your situation.
If the camera is struggling to achieve the required shutter speed, I could stop EV bias -1 because I can push in the column.
But if the camera is on AF, doesn’t it automatically set the shutter speed relevant to the subject being photographed? How do I undo it if my assumption is correct? As you can see I am very much a beginner and still in the process of learning how to operate my camera and what it can do.
I use the Tamron 70-200/2.8 for my sports shots, both indoors (swimming, gymnastics) and outdoors (football), and I’m pretty happy with the results.
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My most common setting, and the one I’d recommend you start with, is to use TAv mode, with T (shutter speed) at 1/400 and A (aperture) at f/4.0 or f/5.6 if there’s enough light. I let S (sensitivity or ISO) float depending on the shot.
I also turn off shake reduction (since I tend to pan) and use burst mode to get as many chances as I can to get the shot I want. I also only use the back button focus so I can decide when to focus the shot.
I think you need to start by downloading and reading the manual from Operation Manuals Download : Support & Service | RICOH IMAGING
At the top of your camera is a dial with letters like Av, Tv, P, etc. It’s a mode dial.
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If the camera is on AF doesn’t it automatically set the shutter speed relevant to the subject being photographed?
No it’s not. I rarely advise referencing the manual, but in this case I have to. Don’t read it (like cover to cover – it will make you cry), but look for general descriptions of the various features. Also find a friend who can give some helpful advice (and don’t forget to buy him/her lunch. ;~)
My experience is that at 6400 shots that are perfectly in focus on the K-x look “blurry” due to grain issues to those not used to SLRs.
The K-x has a moving object mode, with a slanted runner symbol on it, on the mode dial. That should be better than true auto mode because the camera now knows your subject is moving. The manual doesn’t make it clear what the camera does in Moving Object mode, other than it does these two things:
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AF-C – this means that the camera is constantly trying to focus. The camera usually likes to lock the focus first and then let the shutter release. AF-C tries to focus and does not prevent the shutter from firing while focusing. page 115.
Driving Mode – the camera is normally set to shoot once per shutter release, but has two settings to take photos as long as you hold down the button. One setting is as fast as it shoots, 4.7 frames per second. After a few seconds the camera will fill its buffer and slow down until all the footage is written to the SD card. The second setting is only 2 frames per second, but the camera should be able to write all the photos to the card without filling the buffer. page 136.
Presumably that mode uses Auto-5 for its autofocus points, page 117 of the manual. This means that the camera will use a line of AF points centered horizontally in the frame. Probably using Auto-ISO, page 90. These are both factory default settings. if you have a used camera, make sure they are still set to their default settings. The default Auto-ISO only goes up to 1600 and that might be too low. If you’re shooting at night, you’ll need to increase that to 6400.
You may be able to do better than moving object mode by changing some settings directly yourself. First set AF-C and high speed drive.
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Tv mode has nothing to do with television, it stands for time value. The E-dial directly adjusts the shutter speed, and the camera tries to match it. The speeds you can use depend on how fast your subject is moving in the frame. Partly it depends on the players, partly it depends on how much you zoom. At 70mm, players have more frames to cross. You can change this by following an action called panning. If your pan speed perfectly matches the speed of the action, the shutter speed may be slower because the players are not moving within your frame. This allows the camera to select the lens and ISO settings that are better for image quality. So it helps to practice moving a little. Don’t try it on every frame because it’s hard to do. It also helps to predict the player’s path a bit. If you’re not panning, start with the recommended shutter speed of 1/400. When shooting a player standing relatively still, you can go slower, maybe even down to 1/50 if you’re really steady. Panning could work up to 1/25, but I prefer 1/100.
I’m assuming you’re taking JPEG, which is probably better. At night/indoors, the light level and white balance won’t change much, so you can take test shots beforehand and get the right exposure. To set it up in TV mode, see page 107 in the manual. You can also set a custom white balance, page 182 in the manual, or use a preset value that matches the lighting. The camera will be slightly faster because it will not have to choose the white balance for each shot.
I’ve followed a few football matches and the first thing is that it’s really hard to get the focus on the shots because the players are running all over the place so it’s easy for the camera’s autofocus (AF) to pick the wrong thing. I set the AF to only use one central focus point and try to keep it on the player of interest. Even then I think I’m doing well to get 50% of the goalies. I set the aperture to f/2.8 or f/4 because that makes the action you’re focused on stand out from the background. I use a shutter speed of 1/750s to freeze the action and eliminate shutter speed. This combination should avoid using a high ISO as long as you are shooting in daylight.
The key here is to keep practicing. Once you’ve got multiple photos in focus, the next thing is to try to get the right moment to peak the action.
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I tried to attach one of my images taken at f/2.8 and 1/800s under low light that required ISO 6400, but it was really gloomy.
Tip, af, camera, camera settings, iso, monopod, pentax help, pentax k-x, photo, post, settings, shutter, sports, sr, troubleshooting To take a good photo, there are only three settings you need to worry about: aperture , shutter speed and ISO, which are also known as the exposure triangle. In fact, we could be lazier than that by turning the main dial to Auto, letting the camera choose all the settings, and simply concentrating on the composition as we do with smartphones.
However, dig a little deeper and you’ll find that your A7 camera has tons of settings, many of which are related to photography and image quality.
In this article, I’ll explain how to set up your A7 photo modes and guide you through the best photo settings you can find on your A7 III and other A7 models.
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This guide applies to the latest full-frame Sony cameras such as the A7 III, A7R III, A7R IV, A9 and A9 II. Where there are differences in specs and settings, I’ve made sure to highlight them throughout
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